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I’m strewn across the towel rail, starkers. Arms outstretched, one knee arched and tummy sucked in for maximum ribbage. Sodden hair turned from Blonde to dark and suitably rattailed. Eyes closed, head lolled onto chest, profoundly piteous expression of transcendent pain.

Footsteps. Door. Laden pause. Faintest of sighs. Electric toothbrush whirr.

One eye opens. One hand creeps sideways and lobs damp hand towel.

Tootbrush stops.

‘OK, OK. Yes, very good. Juan Martínez Montañés, I presume?’

juan martinez montanezJuan Martinez Montañés: Christ on the Cross (“Cristo de los Desamparados”), 1617; polychromed wood; 185 x 160 cm x 46 cm (72 13/16 x 63 x 18 1/8 in.); Iglesia Conventual del Santo Ángel Carmelitas Descalzos, Sevilla

Are semi-erotic auto-crucifixion tableaux really that wrong? Why do the iconic poses of suffering so dramatically brought to life in The Sacred Made Real, the National Gallery’s new exhibition of Spanish religious painting and sculpture from 1600-1700, just demand to be emulated? As I paced the eerily lit, lifesize lineup of Biblical A-listers (Jesus, Mary, Francis, St John the Baptist, Loyola and co) so meticulously crafted from wood, glass, ivory, hair, cloth rope and bone, so precisely painted in sweaty matt tones, my fingers itched to stretch into pinioned position, and my back longed to bow in a simalcrum of delirious agony.

What is it, deep in our cosseted twenty-first century bones, that recognises these gestures and yearns to participate in the pantomime of cruelty, guilt, grief and overwhelming love?

It is remarkable how genuinely moving these works from another race, another time, an utterly other mindset are. In a culture where a hyperreal crucified monkey in a Marylebone church barely warrants a raised eyebrow, these four hundred-year-old religious sculptures are surprisingly powerful. Their every ivory tooth, hair eyelash and wooden welt glows with an irony-free sincerity which feels bracingly fresh in our post-meaning world.

They’re simply beautiful; many of the glowing, glistening, contorted bodies may have been modelled on classical kouroi. And, my attention-seeking one-woman passion play aside, the graphic violence done by these sculptors to saints and martyrs resists any pat accusations of titillating masochism. The ardency of the craftsmanship, the careful symbolism of each detail, silences any sensational snigger. Pedro de Mena’s Christ as the Man of Sorrows, his slender torso and sensitive face streaming with blood, with each droplet individually described and differentiated and felt, made me feel genuine pity and shock. Bear in mind this is a Blonde who can happily snack on a Pepperami in front of von Trier’s Antichrist. Who sees church as a place to get free oranges and sweets at Christingle. Who didn’t even cry at UP.

pedro de mena Pedro de Mena: Christ as the Man of Sorrows (Ecce Homo), 1673; polychromed wood, human hair, ivory, and glass; 98 x 50 x 41 cm (38 9/16 x 19 11/16 x 16 1/8 in.); Real Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid; © 2009 Photo Gonzalo de la Serna

The only contemporary artist who comes close is Ron Mueck; his distrubingly real yet otherworldly human figures such as Dead Dad give a comparable glimpse of our human potential and limitation, and prompt a similar squeeze of recognition that tightens the spine. But part of the power of the Spanish figures lies in their collectivity, the fact that they are characters in a cohesive and inter-influential canon of earnest intent and belief; the exhibition is curated with serious flair.

dead dadRon Mueck: Dead Dad (1996-1997)

It is however inexplicable that the shop doesn’t sell Stephen Hough’s haunting string sextet based on Tomas Luis de Victoria’s Requiem (1605), specially commissioned to accompany the works. But I suppose that provides even more excuse to linger longer, letting Hough’s lush soundscapes of grief and hope and worship stream through the scratchy, communally grubby headphones of the audioguide as you tour these chambers of torture and tenderness.

Go.

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What’s happening to me? Back in July, Ikeagate seemed to confirm my constitution as an incorrigible domestic What-A-Mess, merrily strewing puppyish chaos about my living space and passing off general clumsiness, laziness and muddiness as bohemian laissez-faire, but over the past few months I’ve slowly started to fold. Literally. I’m playing origami with my vests. I’ve bought 4 packs of those strange stiff shiny zip-up Komplement cartons and devised a clothing storage system so complex that I have had to print and laminate an identification key for my knicker drawer.

key

And that was before the arrival of The Shoe Forest.

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Oh, God, The Shoe Forest. The groaning pleasure of replacing the cream patent brogues on their designated trees. They salute me smartly in the morning,  those serried ranks of footwear, crying out to be chosen to grace the Blonde’s freshly showered feet and insisting that they, no they are the pair that will defy puddle, coddle pavement-sore ball, and generally look outrageously hot (in an unslutty way). And so I pop on the chosen two, and don a crease-free frock (crease free! Who would have thought ironing in front of Merlin could be so much fun!) and trip out into the mortal muddle of London feeling like a minor deity (minor, mind you. No uppity manners here.)

Where will it stop? I hit Shoreditch House on Saturday evening to unwind in a suitably louche manner after a day of nerdy orderment and ended up playing chess for three hours! Chess!

Chess!

I did insist on playing with four knights though, because I’d got a bit of a Merlin fantasy going, what with all that ironing. And then I kept on moving the prawns (nipply chess pieces) sideways, and knocked everything over reaching for the octopus (not a chess piece. This was what we were eating). All those neat little squares were really beginning to piss me off.

There is hope.

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Bear with me. We’re about to have a Paolo Coelho moment, but it’ll pass quickly.

Do you have the patience to wait til your mud settles and the water is clear? Can you remain unmoving til the right action arises by itself?

Lao Tzu’s ancient soundbite expresses a sentiment so bland it slides like lard out of my mouth, but the irritating thing is: he’s right. Patience is the lichen-flecked stone archway to happiness. It is the elaborately carved metal key to maturity. It is the delicately flavoured, zen-infused broth of bodhi that can nourish a species addicted to the Haribo hit of instant gratification.

And I am the worst kind of mud monster. No irridescent dragonfly of thought, emotion, or passing impulse can flit across the limpid pool of my mind without me wresting it to the ground and grinding intoxicating and self-flagellatory powder from its wings. My silt-free sea of serene selfhood has evaporated into a gritty puddle thanks to my buzzing inner frictions and fictions.

To whit, I can’t sleep.

I’ve tried yoga, traditional Buddhist chanting, and lotus-folded candle-gazing in an attempt to bypass my brain, but all I’ve achieved is stiff knees, incense headache and a vague sense of untapped rage. Then I discovered Meditainment.

Oh, I hate the fact that this works. I hate the idea that being guided through trite mental tranquilityscapes of the most pedestrian kind – beaches, spas, rural idylls, fathomless seas – truly brings me inner peace. But one thing my insatiate mind can loose itself in is a story; it will emotionally invest in the tiredest trope as a means of escape. So I’ve been listening to one of their 20 minute guided visualisations every day – if you see a dribbling Blonde slumped in the corner of Costa with her eyes closed at lunchtime, do not disturb – and I’m slowly learning to hold still.

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But I definitely need this ethereal Derek Lam one-piece to complete the look. Now.

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I don’t usually get very excited about products I can’t wear, but that was before I found the audio equivalent of Hussein Chalayan’s spring/summer 2010 Paris Fashion Week show. Simple, smooth, sexy, and just the right side of retro, my Vita Audio R2i DAB radio/iPod dock in rich walnut veneer is quite simply the best thing that’s sat on my dining table ever since David Gandy came over for naked afternoon tea.

vita audio

OK, he didn’t. But who needs David Gandy when you have John Humphrys sliding into bed with you every morning and whispering crystal-clear into your ear? I probably love Radio 4 a little more than a newly minted 27 year old should. I love the surprisingly edgy eclecticism of Woman’s Hour, when you’ve slid from ‘cultivating carrots’ to ‘celibacy as a weapon’ before you know it. I love the cheeky faux-innocence of Eddie Mair ripping chunks off pompous politicos on PM. I love, as I have mentioned before, Mark Lawson’s laugh. And boy, oh boy, do I love Book at Bedtime. Read to me, nanny, please.

A Good Read has always held a particularly special place in my Horlicks-crusted, middle-class heart. When Sue MacGregor invites her two guests to evangelise about their chosen books, the unexpected collisions and collusions of different minds and worlds can produce some wonderfully unexpected sparks. Books dissolve barriers, and thank God, because I recorded an episode of A Good Read this week with HRH MacGregor and Michael Mansfield QC. As soon as we started talking, I forgot that she is the classiest journo-broad around, he’s a world-famous human rights lawyer, and I… well, I am a 27 year old who fantasises about crumpet butter dripping down the thighs of David Gandy. The stories took over, and we were just three unlikely people getting excited about metaphors. It’s broadcasting in November, so get reading Suite Française (David’s choice), The Member of the Wedding (Sue’s) and The Vintner’s Luck (mine) and then we can all have a big old discussion about how right I am.

In the meantime, I shall be mostly found listening to this, very loud – very loud – on my shiny new toy.

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Books were, unsurprisingly, as central to my upbringing as fig rolls and three-hour tantrums. My mum spent hours reading to me both in her womb and out, and ours was a house full of eclectic things to read from AA Milne to Zoé Oldenbourg.

book Yes, that is what I’m reading. It’s not as bad as you might think. Ish.

Last week I rediscovered a small cache of some of the endless number of stories I wrote I was young. Most of them involved ponies (you can’t tell me you’re surprised), pirates (bien sûr) and noblewomen disguised as boys (ouch), but all of them are suffused with an unself-conscious pleasure and unbridled energy that reflects how I saw writing: as essential as climbing trees, making paper people or dressing up as boys. From my five-year-old self’s saga of a bear (he escaped, he got lost in a forest, he went back to the zoo; William Kotzwinkle would be proud) to my thirteen-year-old self’s tale of a Roman soldier pursuing vengeance in ancient Bath (still the best thing I’ve written to date. Seriously), my sense of entitlement to be a writer was unquestioned.

Of course, I’m well aware that this was a privileged scenario, and that the majority of kids grow up in a world where books are exotic and excluding beasts, trailing a scent of geekery or irrelevance or imminent boredom, and writing is something you’re forced to do at school. Yes, yes, Rowling and Meyer may have made impressive inroads – mainly amongst 28 year olds, in my experience – but are the teens gobbling these novels writing their own fledgling fantasies, or just hoping that one day they might be cast in the film?

All of which is why I was delighted to be invited to a party held by the charity First Story in Holland Park School last night, where some of the students read their own stories to a public audience. Founded last year by author William Fiennes and teacher Katie Waldegrove, in 2009 First Story has arranged and paid for fourteen writers to work as ‘writers-in-residence’ in fourteen different schools in London and Oxford. Focusing on ‘challenging’ secondary schools – those with at least 30% of students eligible for free school meals, and/or less than 25% getting five A-C grades at GCSE – the writers help students produce their own stories, organise readings of the work, and create proper bound anthologies to sell.

1st

It was bloody brilliant. The precocious poetry and humour of these kids proved what instinctive storytellers we all are – inherent masters of tease, native nailers of soundbites, embryonic imbibers of iambic pentameter. Every school in the country should have a writer-in-residence, no question. Kevin Prunty from Cranford Community College says that through the scheme “I witnessed a real sense of [the students’] inner growth, pride and achievement…the Cranford writers created positive role models and a sense that writing can be safe”. I love his use of the word ‘safe’. That’s exactly how I felt about writing when I was young – that it allowed me to loose myself in delicious and dangerous scenarios without ever having to feel afraid or ashamed. For kids only used to getting that release by diving into those scenarios in real life, writing gives them a very practical alternative; a positive channel for all that youthful energy and frustrated ambition. Anyone who has felt that wonderful, drained post-writing zen will know that it can be as physically cathartic as parkour.

But I also hope that these students’ families find ways to support their efforts at home, and that others will try to instil First Story’s spirit in much younger children. Writing only becomes a real, personal ally when you treat it with the casual, messy, brilliant insouciance that is the default for kids, yet so rarely applied to this ‘academic’ discipline. I want to see the smart notebooks become bits of scrap paper peppered with smeary HB; the beginnings-middles-and-ends become scattergun ideas and unfinished half-tales; and the act itself performed in gardens and bedrooms as much as at desks. Every child deserves the right to feel that words are their safe playground – and their ever-reliable playmate.

Now, off to watch reruns of Masterchef: The Professionals and Merlin until I dissolve into a dribbling stupor. What? Merlin’s based on Le Morte d’Arthur, right?

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Happy birthday, Blonde. I’m in a weird headspace.

mehair

In some ways I feel more at home than I ever have before – in this city; in myself; even in my clothes. But this week I’ve also been shivering in the cold winds of displacement and alienation. First I went to see Katrina, Jericho theatre’s moving promenade play at the Bargehouse based on survivor testimonials; then I started reading Irene Nemirovsky’s stunning portrait of occupied France, Suite Francaise (I’ll be discussing it on Radio 4 next month, but more of that pant-wetting excitement anon).

So my mind is full of images of massed, grubby, grasping humanity, and the masking and unmasking that happens when we loose the comfort of our context and our home. This has been a year of important events, and as Nemirovsky says, ‘Important events – whether serious, happy or unfortunate – do not change a man’s soul, they merely bring it into relief, just as a strong gust of wind reveals the true shape of a tree when it blows off all its leaves. Such events highlight what is hidden in the shadows; they nudge the spirit towards a place when it can flourish’. Flourish both lovely and not.

When we shed old, inflexible skins, we also end up feeling flayed.

It seems doubly ironic that my 27th falls at the end of Fashion Week, as I pass streams of hollow-cheeked, hobble-footed waifs traipsing along the Strand, heading back to their Shoreditch Warehouses, reality refugees hungover from the fervent shapemaking of the past few days. God, I love them: their stupidity, their waste, their flashes of Shakespearean brilliance spotted in a twisted seamless skirt or a military band of sparrow-coloured silk. Their masking and unmasking of what we wish we were.

mecrouch

I feel blown into relief, and it feels good. I feel melancholy and deeply glad. I intend here’s to opening and upward by ee cummings to be the motif of my next year. And I want to buy some new shoes.

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Yesterday evening I was standing damp-soled and damp-souled in a self-effacing park in Beckenham (don’t ask) when, in the words of Elizabeth Jennings’ wonderful poem: I said autumn, and autumn broke. It literally broke upon me, in that moment. Cotton-vested, bare-armed, residually brown, I looked down at the Soho fag ash and rain stains on my white summer plimsolls, and up at the ash tree bordering the fragrant tarmac (its bark whorled like prune-fingers in the bath; its leaves broken, brittle, given-in). And I Fell.

Mulchmud and leaflitter; pale swollen-bellied sky; the smell of new-term pencil sharpenings and the diffuse halogen halos of streetlights on greyly layered 8pm dark: how had I not noticed until now? Or had it all suddenly coalesced, just then, into a story, ready to be read?

There was still lingering warmth, but inescapably thinned with untrustworthiness. The rainy torrents, which had initially foxed me with their canicular glamour, had by now given way to that most familiar, most autumnal, and most English of phenomena: dripping. Everything, but everything, dripped. The drips, oversaturated, dripped. The bin dripped and the waxy yew hedge dripped and the rosehips dripped and the soil-streaked patch of grass dripped and the woman in the purple cardigan and trainers dripped and her yellow-snouted Yorkie dripped so much that his rheumy eyes ran.

What an innocent I was, yesterday afternoon. Now I’ve named it, there’s no turning back.

leaf Grundlepuck @ Flickr

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My mouth is made for many things, but gammas ain’t one of them. On my flat English palate, Σ’ αγαπώ is transformed from a husky declaration of love, redolent of mastika-scented kisses on a cocoa-coloured Greek mountainside, into an entirely unromantic facial phlegm missile. I’d always assumed that the voiced velar fricative was some sort of small talking rodent, but turns out it’s an essential component of  Greek-speak: and boy, are my dorsum and velum at loggerheads.

I was reluctant to learn it, at first. I like being an outsider. Mingling palely with my half-Athenian inamorato and his Attic comrades, I enjoy the sense of dislocation; I relish the quinine-and-linen thrill of the Englishwoman trespassing ‘mongst swarthier, shoutier, saltier souls. But I also want to know what they’re saying about me behind my back, so a ten day escape on the island of Patmos seemed the ideal opportunity to learn.

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I have always thought of Greek culture as forged from pale fire, backboned by a sternness, stoicism, and ascetic rigidity – men all earnest athletes scraping oil from their pecs with strigils; women all self-sacrificing sisters topping themselves in barren caves; landscape all hellfire-hot, scrub-strewn apocalyptic hills – that would scornfully shrivel my soft, sybaritic, bluebell-scented soul.

In reality, I found a proud, playful sensuality embedded everywhere from the food to the phonology. The language is full of tumbling trainwreck rhythms, gliding dipthongs and tripping consonants. The punch-from-the-chest neh is so much more affirming than the slippery vowel-helmed sibillance of our reluctant yes. Dizzied by the lip-licking, plosive-pouting joy of para poli, I repeatedly wanted, thanked and loved very much. Like the language, the food has to be tasted in situ; there are no good Greek restaurants in London (oh, comment away), and in any case, there is a particular synergy between each Hellenic mouthful and its name. Horta perfectly expresses the earthy, stringy, iron-rich tang of the whore-common weeds that are served as a spinach-like side. Manouri is as softly, comfortingly, milkily mild as its lullaby smooch suggests. When made properly, with  sweet snakes of cucumber nestling in sharply garlic-laced goop, tzatziki is indeed a squeaking exclamation of joy. And when you first bite into the hot, crisp oil-crust of kolokithokeftethes, your bulging maw is as overstimulated by the creamy courgette and cheese centre as it is by the word.

me3

Pity about the plumbing, really.

Photography: Alexia Andreopoulos

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I know I’m a product of Limeyland, through and through. The quivering, purse-lipped, rose-pink prejudices and predelictions of Albion striate my Dover-chalk-white flesh like a stick of Blackpool rock. First thing in the morning, I have a nice mug of builders and a Garibaldi. Last thing at night, I pray to Shakespeare before drifting asleep to the sounds of the shipping forecast, dreaming of angels in Peckham Rye as the gin fumes rise from my Liberty-print sheets.  

However, even I wasn’t expecting – after chowing my way through fourteen fuschia ounces of cow at Keens Steak House; burrowing amongst beavers and bobcats in the Natural History Museum; spattering my soul with glorious Pollocks at Moma; basking in the superb, stained, diesel-sweet, cyan-and-oyster city skyline from the roof of the Met; and kowtowing with the rope-sinewed, golden-thighed, solid-haired matriarchs of Long Island over a lavish nuptial weekend – that the standout figures from my trip to New York would be two sixteenth-century Englishmen.

frick

Sorry, Uncle Sam, but all your starry stripey sass simply can’t compete with the Krypton-strong stares of the Thomases More and Cromwell as daubed by that pugilist-with-pubes-faced paragon of European old mastery, Hans Holbein the Younger. The extraordinary Fifth Avenue mansion that houses The Frick Collection is a den of hardcore aesthetica. Extricate yourself from the caramel-bathed lotus-lure of a frothing Turner lightscape, and you find yourself bitch-slapped by the incandescent glare of El Greco’s Saint Jerome. Knees buckling from the come-hither gaze of Romney’s Lady Hamilton, you bounce off the raw masculine heat of Goya’s forge, canon into a Limoges enamel triptych as suckable as a boiled sweet, and end up on your knees in front of Officer and a Laughing Girl, where Vermeer’s unmistakable light sings with surfacing sensuality. Hit after hit, it left me heady with brilliance, but that pair of peerless Elizabthen politicos were the ones who truly pinned me to the seventeenth century silk and pashmina Indian carpet and wouldn’t let me go. By reuniting these two rivals where they can stare enigmatically at each other across the fireplace, Henry Clay Frick crystallised the lesson of his glorious house – that all art is in the relationship.

So maybe the best bit did come courtesy of the Americans, after all. Damn.

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Sitting in the hospital, drugged into a  pleasantly dopey MJ-on-propofol daze, I quite enjoyed the attention. The sympathy; the proffered sweetmeats; the stroked forrids and squeezed knees; the accolades for bravery, low blood pressure and lovely soft skin: this, I remember thinking, is exactly what it must feel like to be the Dauphin.

At home, the spittle-spraying, self-pitying Sisyphean frustration kicked in.

handIn general, I have the good-toothed, strong-boned, athletic-framed (not to mention smelly, hairy and dribbly) constitution of a horse. In the past month, I have had shin splints, swine flu (an as yet unconfirmed but deeply held belief) and food poisoning - add to which Sunday’s major laceration to left hand, severing the extensor tendon on the little finger and requiring an hour of plastic surgery, a cast, a (distressingly cruise-ship-blue) sling and 3 months of physio, and the fine-fettled filly is more ragged, ravaged, growling cur.

Two things have helped soothe the chafing. One is Daniel Kitson, who has been refining his latest storytelling show, The Interminable Suicide of Gregory Church, at the BAC. Kitson, who first seduced me with his his love of unctious, evocative, English words in Edinburgh last year, weaves deceptively rambling tales of bathos, melancholy, and sly, understated, choking hilarity that are in fact as complex, cyclical and satisfyingly patterned as any Dickens novel. He is a great, scruffy, unreformed humanist; a hoarder of heroic banalities and squireller of self-revealing asides; a monumentalist; a mentalist; and a bloody funny bloke.

The other is this.

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